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Thursday, November 20, 2014

Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum at Lahore | Pictures, Persian Inscriptions, English Translations, Explanations and MORE...


Hi all,

Though, i was supposed to post about the anecdotes involving Salim(Jahangir) and his mother Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum, which depicted the exceptional regard and respect Jahangir reserved for her. But for time being keeping that post on hold, today i am posting about the Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum, also called Begum Shahi Mosque, present in the Walled City of Lahore, Punjab, Pakistan. It was built under the patronage of her son, Mughal Emperor Jahangir, and named after his mother. This post also, reflects the amount of respect Jahangir reserved for his mother. 

This post contains - best possible pictures, snapshots of Arabic-Persian inscriptions from rare sources(many of these inscriptions have faded now), their English translations, their explanations, and the best possible researched-verified material possible for this topic. I hope, this post will transform you 400 years back; and as much as i enjoyed collecting the material and writing it here, you will like it too. Enjoy the journey.!

This is one of tho most ancient mosques of the Old Lahore city. It is situated close to the Masti Gate of the city, opposite the eastern walls of the Lahore Fort, or the street opposite Akbar’s Masjidi Darwaza (Masti Gate is a corruption of the term Masjidi) /Akbari Gateway of the fort. If one stands at the Akbari Gateway’s entrance, the domes of the mosque are clearly visible.
 

Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Interior Frescoes


As an inscription on the northern gateway shows, it was built in 1023 Hijri Year (1614. A. D.), during the reign of Jahangir. The foundation of this holy place was laid by his mother, Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum, or Harka Bai, the eldest daughter of Raja BharMal of Amer. It was constructed under the patronage of her son Jahangir, the designing came from his mother also. It was named after her, in her honor. 

The historians of Lahore, maintain that the color combination and frescoes of this mosque were unrivaled for the beauty in their prime. This mosque is celebrated for two very important features: the double domes with which the prayer chamber is crowned, and the exquisite fresco paintings on the interior surface. The mosque covers an area 135 feet by 127 feet. Constructed of brick masonry and rendered with plaster, it is a massive structure representing a transitional phase of architecture between the Lodhi/Pathan and the Mughal periods. The lofty aiwan gateway at the mosque's north entrance, provides access to the courtyard (128' x 82'), a few feet below the adjacent road level. Once boasting three lofty entrances (on north, south and east facades), the mosque today is hemmed in by later constructions, almost entirely concealing this jewel-like edifice. The superb combination of colours is also noteworthy. Shades of green, ochre, red, blue, yellow, and black have been used with subtlety.


The beautiful interior of the dome of Begum Shahi Mosque with its painted frescoes



The courtyard was originally enclosed by cloisters consisting of rows of cells on the north and south, some portions of which still exists. On the east along the gate is a 17-foot-wide platform, on which stands an enclosure consisting of an octagonal domed tomb and some other modern graves.

 
Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Front with the tank for ablutions

 
It's massive domes, one large and two side ones, and bulky arches, are in the old Pathan style, but the gateways, the balconies and the side rooms are in more Mughal in their construction than Pathan. The mosque is surmounted with 4 arched towers, one at each corner. It is built of bricks, cemented by domnar oil plaster of the best quality, so excellent indeed, that the strength of the building seems to depend entirely on its adhesive properties. In the centre of the court-yard of the mosque is a fountain of water for the ablutions of the faithful.  The construction of this mosque was under the superintendence of an officer Jawahar Mal Mistry.



Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Main Dome


The Mariam-Uz-Zamani mosque is said to be among the most beautiful Mughal structures. The beautiful contrasting colors, the stunning frescoes and the decorated arches are extremely impressive and speak volumes of the taste and aesthetics of the builder. Throughout the interior one can see floral and geometrical patterns in rich colors which together with the crowned double domed prayer chamber are the most striking features of the mosque. The similar colored frescoes are also visible on the ceilings of the Palace of Mariam-Uz-Zamani in Fatehpur Sikri.



Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Frescoes



In the centre of the courtyard is a tank for ablutions measuring 31 feet 5 inches by 26 feet 3 inches, now much repaired. A modern roof of reinforced cement concrete supported by two rows of round pillars partially covers the tank. The courtyard must have been paved with brick tiles in usual Mughal fashion, but it has now been completely re-laid in modern brick. On the northwest and southwest corners beside the prayer chamber are the old staircases leading to the roof. Similar staircases on the northeast and southeast corners led to the roof of the cells. Only traces are left now.



Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Corner Jeweled Frescoes


The prayer chamber of the mosque is an oblong structure measuring internally 130.5 feet from south to north and 34 feet from east to west. It has five compartments divided by heavy engaged arches supported by massive jambs and surmounted by high domes. The central double dome is the highest, placed on a high, round neck (11 feet 1 inch). The double dome consists of two shells, the inner one being of stucco. A wooden frame connects the two shells for reinforcement. The outer shell (3.5 feet thick) has a small arched opening to the west. The front openings of the chambers, five in number, possess four central arches, the central one being the highest, with a high parapet and a projected frame. The whole outer surface of the front has been treated with thick lime plaster, creating decorative arched panels in recess.



Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Interior treated with Lime Plaster



Inside the prayer chamber, there is a series of high, deep arched recesses set in all five compartments on the west. The central mihrab has an engrailed arch treated specially with profuse stucco ornaments which are geometric, floral, and inscriptional. The half-domed niche of the central arched opening and the mihrab has been filled with low stalactites. The remaining four compartments have the same engrailed arch treatment, though comparatively smaller and less decorative.



 
Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Geometric Patterns.Click for the full size image.


At the four corners of the prayer chamber are placed small, square pavilions (6 feet 10 inches) with four arched openings surrounded by cupolas placed on octagonal drums. Originally, the cupolas were crowned with a low cresting and finials, like the five bigger domes over the main prayer chamber. These have now considerably decayed.

Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Central Chamber

The mosque stands out for its unique fresco decoration, with which the whole interior surface of the prayer chamber is replete. The paintings are unrivalled for their delicacy, liveliness, perfection of technique, and variety of subject. The endless variety of geometric, floral, and inscriptional designs spread over the interior surface in a subtle colour scheme is not seen elsewhere. The surface has been divided into various panels of different shapes and dimensions according to the space available, and all the soffits, niches, squinches, arches, dome interiors, and apex are covered with these paintings.
Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - THE famous beautiful Central Arch


The squinches have been provided with low stalactites painted with small flower twigs, while the adjoining areas are divided into arched panels which have bold interwoven floral patterns. Some of the borders of the panels have geometric schemes of decoration. The patterns have been mainly created by carving slightly incised lines in white. The interior of the dome has similarly been divided into honeycombed geometric patterns, filled with delicate floral tracery. The small space in between is filled elegantly with stars which bear some of the attributes of Allah done in Naskh characters.


Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Originally a Fountain was present

Comparatively small in size, its present exterior hardly provides the foretaste of the wealth of decoration in the prayer hall. ---The central dome rises above the remaining domes and is carried on a drum; while those on the flanking bays are rather flat hemispherical cupolas. The treatment of the enormous dome itself is remarkable in its muqarnas (stalactite squinches) and elegantly painted fresco network.



Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Top view of above picture


The mosque was used during the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh as a gunpowder manufactory, and on that account it came to be called the Barudkhana Wali Masjid, i.e., The Mosque of GunPowder. The mosque was restored back to the civilians by Major McGregor , the Deputy Commisioner of Lahore, in 1850 along with shops and houses attached to it.

Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Front Main Dome Interior



 Inscriptions:

The mosque possesses several inscriptions, both Quranic and Non-Quranic, executed exclusively in plaster in high and bold relief, a characteristic feature, first met with here among the historic Mughal monuments of Lahore. Among the non-Quranic inscriptions, the one executed over the arch of the  entrance gate and one executed on the high facade of the prayer chamber are important, as they record the names and the date of construction of the mosque.

I could find 3 contemporary inscriptions on this mosque, after a lot of digging .!!! 

A 4th inscription was also present,  but i could not scan the clear picture as the archive was badly torn and beyond scanning capability. It was a beautiful passage from The Holy Quran.

The inscription on the entrance gate is in Nastaliq characters, and that on the facade of the prayer chamber is in Naskh-Suls. Here, are the snapshots...


 

a. Inscription on the Northern Gateway

Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Inscription on North Gate

The verses read in Arabic-Persian as follows:
{Thanks to my friend Tamy for reading the Persian lines for me.}


" Allahu Akbar

minat izdak rak e akar ghast karaz ibteda 
hum betafeeq khuda o hukum sahab masnade 
Hazrat Mariam Zamani bali HazMalkaan 
kaz anayat illahi sakhta e jayi hadye 
azpaye tarikh khatam ain e banaye chawan behsaht
fikar mi ker dum ke akhir yaftem khush masjid se "


The verses read after English translation are as follows: 

{I have tried my best to give as correct translation as possible.}
 

" God is great
God be thanked through whose grace/poise
Under the auspices/divine-token of His Majesty{i.e.,Jahangir} this building was completed.

To the founder of this edifice - of this place of salvation is the Queen Hazrat Mariam Zamani.
For the completion of this edifice which resembles paradise/heaven/jannat/swarga ,
I was thinking (of the date) when at last i found it in words - 'What a fine mosque'! "




Explanation: 

The inscription thanks God for the elegance bestowed, and mentions the building was constructed under the 'divine token' of Jahangir. 

Finally, the inscription dedicates the last three lines to Hazrat Mariam-Uz-Zamani, mentioning her as the founder of this imposing building. It is possible that the foundation stone of this building was laid down by her. Further, it adds that, this place is as beautiful as heaven. And then, it seems that the inscription is saying to Mariam-Uz-Zamani - what a fine mosque it has been.



Note:
Till date where ever, i have found any mention of Mariam-Uz-Zamani, by her son Jahangir, i have always found this word preceded by the Arabic title - 'Hazrat' . This title lends a divine meaning to the person, on whom it is bestowed upon. In English, it translates to "Her Highness", "Your honor", "Her Holiness". Jahangir has used this title ONLY for his mother, not even for his father Akbar, or no second person.

The piousness of lending this title to his mother can be concluded from the fact that, this title is used for The Prophet - Muhammad Sahab(salla Allahu ʿalay-hi wa-sallam), attaching respect to him.

Jahangir has placed his mother above ALL, in terms of giving her respect. My next post, will deal with this topic in details. This was a brief mention.






b. Inscription on the Eastern Gateway


Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Inscription on East Gate



The verses read in Arabic-Persian as follows:

" Shah Alamgir Nur-ud-din Muhammad Badshaah

baad ya raab dr jahan roshan cho loor mehr o mah "


The verses read after English translation are as follows: 

" May the world conqueror Badshaah Nur-ud-din Muhammad
Shine in this world like the sun and moon, O God ! "



Explanation: 

The inscription 'prays' to God on behalf of Jahangir, and asks that he may shine in the world like the sun and the moon. The mention of sun along with the moon is very interesting. Moon generally reflects the Muslim association, and sun is revered by the Hindus. This somehow points to 2 conclusions:
i. Jahangir's inclinations towards the faith of his mother.
ii. Jahangir's inclinations towards the other religions keeping in sync with the harmonious leanings of his father Akbar. 

We all know Sun has an important place in the Hindu Mythology. Akbar held Sun in high regard, and started worshiping Sun at some point of his life(not initially), which brought him into conflict with the orthodox Ulemas.!!
  
It is also certain that this inscription is a prayer from Mariam-Uz-Zamani for her son, considering the kind of words used.



c. Inscription on the Northern Arch


Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Inscription on Central Arch






The verses read in Arabic-Persian as follows:

"
qaala Rasool Sallallaho Allahi Wa sallam al momin fi masjid ka lasmak fi alma "


The verses read after English translation are as follows:

" So, May the Almighty grant him the honor and grant him peace ! The faithful is in a mosque, as the fish is in water. "



Explanation: 

Like a fish finds blessings(life) from water, in a similar manner the faithful one finds blessings from the place of worship(mosque), this is what is said by Muhammad Sahab, who may grant to the faithful - mercy and blessings.





Radical Changes witnessed by the mosque in 1890's :

We know that this mosque was handed to the civilians, in 1850. Later, around 1880's it was repaired. This mosque witnessed an unfortunate occurrence after over 280 years of it's construction. The following notice was engraved on the wall of this historic Mosque in 1895 .



Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - The Inscription ADDED LATER in 1895



The 'declaration' appears to be in Urdu:{people who understand normal Hindi also can decipher the meaning as mentioned below}

" ba ittefaq-e-anjuman-e-hanafiah wa hukm-e-shara-sharif yeh qarar paya keh koi wahabi, rafizi, naturi wa mirzai masji haaza mein na aaway aur khilaf-e-mazhab-e-hanafi koi baat na karay – faqir ghulam qadir mutwalli masjid begum shahi 1313 Hijri "


The English translation of this 'declaration' is as follows:

" With the consent of the Hanafi Muslim Association and also in accordance with the Islamic Sharia, this was decided that no Wahabi (Salafi), Rafizi (Shia), Naturi (rationalist Muslim) and Mirzai (Ahmadi) is allowed to enter this mosque nor is anyone allowed to say anything against Hanafi sect in this mosque. 

 - By Faqir Ghulam Qadir, Custodian of the Begum Shahi Mosque, 1313 Hijri (1895 A.D.) "


Explanation:  

Hanafi Muslims (comprising Barelvis and Deobandis) represent majority of Muslims in Pakistan. By an estimate, Shias represent 20%, Wahabis represent 10% while Ahmadis are estimated to be 3% of Pakistan’s Muslim population.

In sum, the above notice identifies four sects or groups of Muslims who are in numerical minority in Pakistan, and remain subject to various forms of social stereotypes/persecution are barred from entering this historic mosque. The details are NOT related to my topic, nor i would be discussing it here, but i thought of mentioning briefly, as this inscription is present in the mosque precincts now. This info was ONLY for informational purpose.



Present State of the Mosque:

Today, this beautiful mosque lies in a pathetic condition. Time and again several Pakistani newspapers have been demanding and raising the issue of restoration of this mosque and safeguarding it from the illegal encroachment. The articles are listed below with 2 videos.

 
Mosque of Mariam-Uz-Zamani Begum - Encroachment



Here are some of the newspaper articles.

http://www.thenews.com.pk/Todays-News-5-269115-Historical-Begum-Shahi-Mosque-faces-dec

http://archives.dailytimes.com.pk/lahore/21-May-2012/headed-towards-ruin-begum-shahi-mosque-pleads-for-attention


 
I am looking forward to reading your views on this topic. I will be discussing the topic of this mosque in finer details as comments on this post only.


This article has been posted under the Mughals(Akbar) section of this history BLOG.


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